Back in 2001, Coonawarra had a vintage to remember. It began with a very warm and dry summer. Hottest January and February for years. Then March and April saw temperatures fall below average. Although rare in Coonawarra, the combination of cool, heavy early morning mists and sunny days in late May provided ideal conditions for botrytis to thrive and concentrate the grape flavours.

The liquid glistens in the glass. Rich gold to amber colours to translucent edges. There is a green tinge in there as well. The aromas are a tricky one to describe, because this wine can be two different beasts in one. When you first open the bottle, and then when you allow the wine to breathe and get accustomed to its new environment.

The first aromas are tightly packed. Ripe yellow peach and nutmeg, with brandied apple. Grassy backbone with jasmine florals.

-But then-

Swirl it round for a while. Look at it. Evaluate it. Then come back to it. The aromas are much bolder. There is quince and raisin at the forefront, with honeysuckle and candied peach. Liqueur Melon is subtle in the background, coupled with some toffee aromas. Lemon zest, apples also play their part in the bouquet. This is a very complex wine.

The palate is thick, rich and coats immediately. The flavours come in waves. The first is citrus, lemon and lime, which is quickly followed by green apple. The palate is then awash with raisin and quince, that rush over each other. As the wine swirls back and forth, side to side, toffee pokes its head out and mingles with a new flavour: raisin pudding. Candied apple and peach are some of the final flavours, and are caressed with some lovely honeysuckle, nutmeg, cinnamon and a touch of apricot. The finish is lingering, soft and definitely moreish.

This wine is unique in many ways, but especially because it is made from Chardonnay grapes.

The perfect way to enjoy this wine is to chill it just below room temperature and use it as an apertif. Throw some stronger flavoured cheeses at it, and you'll be in (pretty much) heaven. Liver pâté and a fresh, crusty French loaf would be brilliant, as would a wide range of sweet treats that accentuate the flavours of peach, raisin and apricot. Pudding with fresh cream, delicately overflowing... pudding with chocolate syrup...